The Living Glove book
Brief description of the project
Grāmata «Dzīvais cimds» ir veltījums izcilajai latviešu daiļamata meistarei un domātājai Jettei Užānei jeb Cimdu Jettiņai viņas simtgadē. Izdevums, ko radījusi mantojuma glabātāja Elīna Apsīte sadarbībā ar dizaina studiju «Overpriced» un dizaineri Danu Jirgensonu, ir daudz vairāk nekā tradicionāls tekstilmākslas katalogs. Tas ir dizaina un satura simbiozē radīts stāsts par cilvēka gara spēku, fiksējot cimdus kā liecību par laiku, sabiedrību un 20. gadsimta Latvijas kultūras pulsu. Grāmatas vizuālā koncepcija apzināti balstās pretmetos — formas naivumā un brīvībā, kas kontrastē ar Jettes nelokāmo un dziļo pasaules redzējumu. Trīs līmeņu satura struktūra — fotogrāfijas, atmiņu stāsti un cimdu fotogrāfijas — ir izkārtota brīvi, atsakoties no fiksētas sistēmas. Dizaina centrālais grafiskais elements ir Jettes stilizētais rokraksts, kas caurvij grāmatas lapaspuses. Īpaša nozīme piešķirta izdevuma materialitātei un taktilajai pieredzei — grāmatas vāku rotā telpisks dobspiedums, kas atveido Jettes «balts uz balta» adīto cimdu reljefu, ļaujot «izlasīt» cimda faktūru caur gaismu, ēnu un tausti. «Dzīvais cimds» turpina Cēsu muzejā notikušās un Latvijas Dizaina gada balvā 2025 atzinību guvušās izstādes aizsākto misiju, padarot Jettes unikālo mantojumu pieejamu, izjustu un laikmetīgu.
Originality and creativity of the idea
The book brings together previously unpublished accounts by Jette Užāne, technical drawings of mittens and photographs, while at the same time creating a clear, contemporary and multilayered statement about Latvian cultural heritage. The principal challenge was to structure this diverse material so that it would not lose its authenticity and emotional depth and would also embody a story of time, society and the unbroken connection between past and present.
Definition of the problem and the relevance of the applied solutions
The main challenge in making a book about Jette's legacy was to consciously avoid the feel of a traditional ethnographic or textile-art catalogue. Jette's mittens are not merely practical handicrafts; they embody her life philosophy and view of the world. A static, encyclopaedic layout that simply listed the exhibits would deprive this heritage of its living soul.
The solution rests on the design decision to interweave the memoir-style accounts of the author Elīna Apsīte together with the knitted mittens. A three-tier content structure was developed for the book, abandoning a strictly fixed and predictable system. Instead, a free, flowing arrangement of text and image was built up, dynamically complemented by Jette's stylised handwriting.
This design approach literally builds the book — memories and visual material become one whole. The design fulfils its task precisely: it does not merely archive objects but successfully transposes the presence and conversational quality of Jette's legendary «mitten shows» into book form while preserving the continuity of the story.
Co-creation, stakeholder involvement and cooperation during the realisation process
The making of the book was a purposeful interdisciplinary co-creation process. Its substantive core was shaped by the author Elīna Apsīte — head of the Cimdu ceļš association and curator of the exhibition The Living Glove. Her knowledge enabled the design team to accurately grasp and translate Jette's legacy into a visual language.
The greatest technical and creative challenge was realising the vision for the cover — the three-dimensional debossing. To achieve the intended tactile experience, industry experts were brought in. In close cooperation with Rīgas zīmogu fabrika and Pēteris Tenisons, a process of experimentation was carried out to successfully materialise the relief of the knitted mitten into a technical cliché and, subsequently, into a precise cover impression. A significant role was also played by the printers at Jelgavas tipogrāfija. Their continuous technical advice and involvement at the production stages ensured that the bold design vision was transformed into a publication of high typographical and artistic quality.
Functionality and technological solutions
From the standpoint of functionality and technology, the book rests on the idea of a publication as a multilayered, tactile and structured experience. The content structure is built across five chapters that systematise Jette Užāne's creative legacy, providing clear navigation between chapters of mittens and the technical drawings.
The cover plays an essential role. Its central element is a three-dimensional debossing — a tactile reproduction of Jette Užāne's knitted mittens. Mittens «drawn» using only light and shadow, evoking I. Ziedonis's Krāsainās pasakas series. As Jettiņa herself said, «to draw white on white» — demonstrating that the material is a self-sufficient instrument capable of conveying the texture of a knitted mitten more physically and directly than a photographic reproduction. The technical realisation was carried out in close cooperation with Pēteris Tenisons, Rīgas zīmogu fabrika and Jelgavas tipogrāfija, ensuring high material quality and the precise execution of the design intent.
Aesthetics and other experiential dimensions
The book's visual language is closely rooted in Jette Užāne's creative world. It is grounded in the coexistence of opposites — the naive and the structured, the intuitive and the consciously composed — reflecting both the author's personality and the character of her work.
The interior visual language of the book continues this principle. The spreads are marked by freedom and a conscious refusal of a strict, rationalised system. At the same time, a clear structure is preserved that allows the content to be navigated. This interplay between the free and the organised creates a dynamic aesthetic experience in which order and unpredictability are held in balance.
Typography also plays a special role — a unique typeface developed by interpreting Jette's diary handwriting.
Economic significance, sustainability and circularity
In this context, Jettiņa was a visionary. Her approach to materials and to the creative process would fully align with the principles of contemporary ecodesign and sustainable development. Jette mainly used wool dyed with natural pigments. The Dzīvais cimds project therefore ensures that this experience is passed on to future generations, strengthening community identity and self-awareness. The book serves as an educational instrument that prevents rare craft skills from disappearing, preserving intangible cultural heritage as a living and usable resource.
It is also important to note that the book has been made with a conscious approach to material selection and production. The paper used is recyclable, while the design is based on the natural properties of the material, avoiding superfluous, resource-intensive finishes. The cover relief impression was achieved without the use of additional inks, drawing only on the interplay of light and shadow, thereby reducing the environmental impact of production.
Social relevance, inclusion, availability and accessibility
Despite living in a wheelchair, Jette Užāne became a symbol of inner strength, self-determination and creative excellence. Her experience and works show that physical limitations are no obstacle to full participation in culture and creative practice. The book, like the 2024 exhibition at the Cēsis Museum, serves as a platform for social understanding, fostering a more inclusive society and reducing the stigma associated with disability.
The project foregrounds design as an instrument of social change, where aesthetics and content meet a clear value system. Jette's legacy is brought back to life through co-creation initiatives — community involvement that fosters knowledge transfer and intergenerational dialogue. It also strengthens awareness of Latvian identity, grounded in craft traditions and personal experience.
The book highlights the significance of an individual story as a cultural value, inspiring society to appreciate humanity, creativity and inner strength above material consumption.
