(Un)woven biotextiles (formerly «Pre–Loved» biotextiles)
Brief description of the project
"(Un)woven biotextiles" (formerly "Pre-Loved") are sustainable materials made from recycled textile fibres and suitable for fashion, interior and product design. The durable, non-woven material is distinguished by its high-quality design and aesthetic qualities and is recyclable. "(Un)woven biotextiles" can be broken down so that its fibres can be used again and again. The designers have created their own product design collection of seating and wall panels and collaborated with manufacturers and designers such as Nat-2 for shoes, Been London for shoulder bags and Hirsch for watch straps. In collaboration with Latvian designers Mareunrol's, two sizes of waistcoats have been created; the smaller one is made from scraps from the large waistcoat, thus emphasising the recyclability of the material.
Originality and creativity of the idea
- Pre-Loved's designers have managed to combine conventional textile production techniques with experimental processes to create products made from different types of textile waste - scraps, yarns and even textile dust;
- Pre-Loved biotextiles are fully recyclable, at the end of their life cycle the fibres can be broken down and reused again and again;
- The technology used to dye the fabric is also based on a circular economy. In collaboration with natural pigment specialist Roua Alhalabi (Roua Atelier), a process has been developed that allows the pigments to be reused and avoids dye residues;
- The concept of eternal recycling is also demonstrated in the latest Pre-Loved products: two vests made in collaboration with Mareunrol's, where the smaller vest is made from leftover fabric from the larger vest.
Definition of the problem and the relevance of the applied solutions
Globally, only 5% of all textiles produced can be recycled into new products. This is due to a lack of technology and the huge volume of mixed fibres. To tackle this problem, the designers incorporated the following into their work:
- The use of mixed fibres;
- Collaboration with major industry players - waste sorting company Eco Baltia vide in Latvia and textile recycling centres Altex in Germany and Textilin in Spain;
- Pre-Loved biotextile produced using existing fabric production facilities, in collaboration with nonwovens manufacturers STFI in Germany and I-did in the Netherlands. The project therefore does not require the purchase of its own production equipment;
- At the end of its life cycle, Pre-Loved biotextile is fully recyclable into a new material.
Co-creation, stakeholder involvement and cooperation during the realisation process
"Pre-Loved" has collaborated with Mareunrol's to create a clothing line that demonstrates the recyclability of the material. It was particularly important for both parties to develop a design concept based on the properties of the material, respecting its flexibility, thickness and texture. The fashion designers studied the material, carefully considering the way and places of joining the material.
The result of the co-creation was two functional vests in different sizes. The small vest was made from the leftovers of the large vest - the offcuts were returned to the Pre-Loved designers, who disassembled and recycled them into new material, from which the fashion designers developed a replica of the Mini-Me vest.
The pigments used to dye the material were also recycled - the colour of the scraps from the large vest was used to dye the recycled material. That's why the small vest has been given its dull purple hue.
Functionality and technological solutions
"Pre-Loved's" designers developed an organic glue that holds fibres together, creating a texture similar to leather and paper. The innovative technology makes it possible to use fibres of all lengths and compositions that currently lack recycling potential.
With a particular focus on the functionality of the material, the designers worked with RTU's Institute of Polymer Materials to obtain comprehensive tensile, abrasion and water resistance tests. Like commercial materials, Pre-Loved biotextile withstands more than 50,000 Martindale revolutions. The new material has applications in interior, product and fashion accessory design. There is also increased interest from the transport construction industry, with applications in interior decoration for cars, planes and ships.
Aesthetics and other experiential dimensions
Textile fibres have long been known as a valuable material for stuffing mattresses, insulating walls and absorbing sound, but because of their unattractive appearance they are always hidden behind other, more beautiful materials. Pre-Loved is visually appealing and thus combines the functional with the aesthetic.
Experience has shown that customers appreciate a well-thought-out and visually appealing design, even among recycled materials. Pre-Loved biotextile stands out in this category for its elegant colour palette and tactful texture.
A base colour palette has been developed, which currently consists of six shades. The shades have been created in two ways:
- Marble colours: shades derived from the primary colour of the garment. The individual fibres are clearly visible.
- Natural pigment colours: shades derived from a special dyeing technology developed with natural pigment expert Roua Atelier.
Economic significance, sustainability and circularity
- Pre-Loved bio-textiles are life-cycle inclusive materials that reinforce the ecocentric idea of nature conservation. The project contributes to society by using existing resources and using them appropriately;
- The material is permanently recyclable without the addition of new fibres;
- The production of the material does not generate new surpluses. The required amount of textile is produced and only 3 litres of water per 1m2 is used;
- The dye used in the production of the material is recyclable and only natural pigments and recycled mordants (e.g. rust) are used;
- The material is produced using existing equipment in the industry and in collaboration with each other (rather than building a large production facility). The project promotes cooperation between the waste recycling industry and textile recycling centres and fabric manufacturers."
Social relevance, inclusion, availability and accessibility
- Pre-Loved promotes awareness of the benefits of recycling textile waste, resulting in increased public involvement in sorting textile waste and awareness of the basic conditions for sustainability;
- Raising public interest in recycled materials and products.
